Coily hair is known for its tight curls and spirals, the zig-zag patterns of this hair type require extra attention. Hydration and moisturizing, structured hair care routines, and careful styling will help keep your coily hair looking fantastic.
There is a plethora of coily hair curl patterns, but there are certain care routines that work well for all these hair types. Coily hair has different hair maintenance routines than straight hair types, but the extra effort is worth it. Coily hair is like no other hair type – it’s beautiful and unique.
What Is Coily Hair?
Coily hair, also known as type 4 hair, is more curly and voluminous than “curly” hair – which is Type 3 hair. Coily hair has tight curls which are either S-shaped or Z-shaped curls. These coils are almost zig-zag shaped – 4B and 4C especially. 4A hair is more S-shaped than 4B and 4C hair.
Coily Hair vs Curly Hair
Curly hair and Coily hair are next to one another on the hair type spectrum, but they are quite distinct and different. These are the simplest terms to define hair types. Each hair type also has three subtypes: A, B, and C.
· Type 1: Straight
· Type 2: Wavy
· Type 3: Curly
· Type 4: Coily
To get even more descriptive when comparing curly and coily hair:
Curly hair: S-shaped curls, ranging from loose to tight. The curly hair spectrum ranges from loose, round ringlets to tight, dense curls that can be corkscrew-shaped. Easier to manage than coily hair, much more defined curls than wavy hair.
Coily hair: Dense S-shaped to Z-shaped coils. S-shaped in type 4A, Z-shaped in 4B and 4C. Denser, more fragile than curly hair – prone to breakage from detangling. Requires more moisture and care. Zig-zag shaped curls that are dense and springy. Hair is voluminous when moisturized and healthy.
In comparison to curly hair, coily hair requires more moisturizing and a different hair care routine to maintain hair health.
Characteristics of Coily Hair (Type 4)
Coily hair has tightly spiraled or zig-zag patterns the extend from the root the ends. This hair type is more susceptible to damage than other hair types. There are specific hair care routines that will help keep coily hair healthy and looking it’s best. Hydration and moisturizing are top of the list for taking care of this hair type.
There are three subtypes in Type 4 (coily) hair, 4a, 4b, and 4c.
4A Hair
Type 4A hair is characterized by small, S-shaped coils that are dense and springy. The coils are very small compared to the curls of Type 3 Hair. These curls are usually very fine in texture, and the coils run from root to tip.
4B Hair
Type 4B hair has a ‘Z’ shape, the hair bending at sharp angles with a less defined curl pattern. The densely packed strands of hair are more wiry and coarse compared to 4A hair. Extra moisturizing, deep conditioning, and gentle detangling is important to keep this type of hair from breaking, and looking it’s absolute best.
4C Hair
4C hair is the curliest of Type 4 hair subtypes. The zig-zag patterns of the hair are even more dense than those of 4B. This hair type tends to shrink more than any other, moisturizing and careful handling are necessary for reducing breakage and maintaining length. 4C hair is the most delicate of any of the coily hair types.
Routines for Keeping Coily Hair Healthy
There are proven routines that will help your coily hair looking fabulous, healthy, and voluminous.
Moisturizing and Hydration
With coily hair, it is more difficult for sebum to travel from the scalp to the end of the hair strands. The cuticles of coily hair are often highly porous, meaning moisture leaves the hair shaft easily, making the hair dry. The high porosity of coily hair also means that humidity from the air can easily enter the hair strand, creating frizz. Moisturizing and hydration is vitally important to make coily hair look good.
Water based products are best for hydration, that are light on oils and lipids, enough to lock in moisture, not so much that it prevents moisture from getting into the hair strand.
Wash and Go / Washing Routines
Coily hair is susceptible to losing moisture. Shampooing every day can strip away the natural oils from the scalp, so limit full hair washing to every 7 to 10 days. Coily hair is more fragile than straight hair and washing too much can lead to premature breaking. Many shampoos contain sulfates, which are damaging to hair, so check your shampoo and conditioners to make sure they don’t include these ingredients.
Co-washing is a must if you have coily hair to keep it clean without stripping natural oil or leaving it dry and brittle. Co-wash cleansers are designed for coily hair, to cleanse and condition in one step. Be sure to use this step in between deeper cleaning. This is a more gentle, hydrating way to cleanse your coily hair.
Deep Conditioning
If you have coily hair, periodically use a deep conditioning treatment to nourish and replenish your hair. Use water-based products to get just the right balance of moisturizing without unnecessary buildup.
Be Gentle Detangling Your Hair
Coily hair is prone to damage from mechanical stress, such as during detangling. Always detangle hair carefully using your fingers or a wide tooth comb if you have coily hair. It’s also easier to detangle when your hair is wet or has moisturizing hair product added.
Use a Heat Protectant
Heat styling tools can cause damage to coily hair by weakening the keratin bonds in the hair strand. If you must use heat styling, be sure to use a heat protectant first to protect your Type 4 hair.
Use the LOC Method
Coily hair is very delicate and can easily dry out and become frizzy. The LOC method is one way to combat this phenomenon and protect natural hair from getting dry and brittle. The acronym stands for LIquid, Oil, and Cream. These three steps help moisturize the hair and lock in hydration. The Liquid is usually a leave-in conditioner which hydrates the hair. The Oil is usually a serum using castor oil or another lipid to protect the hair against heat and frizz. The Cream is a styling cream which seals the hair strand and keeps moisture in, making hair manageable.
Invest in Silk or Satin Pillowcases
One of the secrets to maintaining beautiful coily hair is to use silk or satin pillowcases while you sleep. Coily hair can be damaged by nighttime friction with cotton pillowcases, while satin and silk reduce the friction caused by movement in your sleep. They also help your hair retain moisture as they are less absorbent than cotton. You can also use a satin or silk bonnet to protect your hair at night. This will help reduce frizz when you wake up.
Read Labels on Shampoo, Conditioner, and Hair Products
Coily hair has special considerations, and some hair products are designed specifically for coily hair.
Look for products free of silicones, alcohols, and sulfates, that have minimal synthetic additives. Humectants such as honey and glycerin are healthy for coily hair. Natural oils like argan oil and jojoba will revitalize and nourish your hair. pH-balanced formulas and proteins like keratin will help strengthen your coily hair.
Schedule a Hair Trim Twice a Year
Split ends and breakage can occur with coily hair, so trimming your hair with a professional hairstylist bi-annually can help prevent further environmental damage to your hair, keeping it growing healthy.
Most Common Issues for Coily Hair
These are the most common issues for Type 4 hair.
· Frizziness
· Dryness
· Excessive breakage
· Product Build-up
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