Emollients are ingredients used in hair care and skin care products that protect and repair by forming a barrier against environmental damage, locking in moisture. For products such as shampoo and conditioner, emollients help protect against damage from wind, UV rays, thermal heat from blow dryers and heat styling tools, and other elements. Most hair care products will have some type of emollients, because they are necessary for hair health. Emollients are also commonly used in skin care products for the same protective qualities that help seal in hydration and prevent further damage.
This article is a summary of what emollients are, what they do, and how they help protect and repair your hair.
What are Emollients? What Do Emollients Do?
Emollients are substances that help form a protective barrier on the hair or skin, helping lock in moisture. There are several types of emollients, including lipids (natural oils), silicones, paraffin, lanolin oil, coconut oil, fatty alcohols, and certain types of polymers. These emollients are used in shampoo, conditioners, hair masks, and also in skin care products. Emollients help protect hair from environmental damage and keep hydration locked into the hair follicle. They also make the hair strands softer and more pliable.
Hair products must carefully balance the amount of emollients in the right proportions to maximize effectiveness. Not enough emollients will leave the hair with inadequate protection, making hair dehydrated, frizzy, and lacking volume and bounce.Too much emollient can leave hair saturated with product buildup leaving hair heavy and weighed down. Hair care products are formulated to have just the right amount of emollients and humecants to protect and nourish hair.
Types of Emollients
Natural Vegetable Oils
Natural oils derived from plants and vegetables is the largest category of emoluments used in hair products. Coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil and other plant oils are used to add a layer of protection to hair. These organic oils are preferred for delivering extra vitamins and minerals which help nourish and repair hair. The lipids in natural oils penetrate the hair strands at the cellular level, helping to regenerate the hair follicle. Research the type of hair repair products that best fit your hair type and which emollients in their formulas.
Silicones
Silicones are a polymer group that create a thin protective film on the hair strand. These emollients work best with hair that is heavily damaged or chemically processed. Most often, silicones are included in heat protectants, but they also often appear in mousses, and hair styling products. There are different types of silicones for different purposes. Heavy silicones that are difficult to remove without shampoo should be avoided because they cause product buildup. Most can be washed off with water or a mild shampoo.
Wax
Waxes are emollients that can be derived from plants or animals. These are usually used for softening and protecting hair, and it is often used in conditioners. Some of the most popular waxes are bees wax, jojoba, and lanolin.
Bees wax is used in conditioners and hair repair products. Lanolin is an animal-derived wax that is similar to the lipids found in the human body. Jojoba is a plant-derived wax that contains fatty acids, similar to plant oils. One unique characteristic of jojoba is it contains a substance called squalane, that closely resembles sebum, the oil that secretes from the sebaceous glands at the base of hair follicles and protects hair.
Fatty Alcohols
Unlike short-chain alcohols, long-chain fatty alcohols condition and moisturize hair instead of dehydrating. These molecules bind water molecules to the hair follicle and cortex, making hair soft, pliable, and elastic. Hair becomes more hydrated and is easier to manage. Common fatty alcohols you might see in hair care products include glycerol, cetyl alcohol, alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearic acid, and myristyl alcohol.
Paraffin (Petroleum Derivative)
Paraffin is a long-chained molecule that is created in the distillation of petroleum is an emollient obtained through the distillation of petroleum. Notably, paraffin creates a luxurious shine in hair, sealing in moisture, making hair smooth, and creating a strong barrier on the hair strand to protect from environmental damage. Paraffin does not cause allergic reactions and adds shine and volume.
Ready to Begin Your Career in Cosmetology?
If you’re excited about working as a cosmetologist and making a career out of doing what you love, Campus Sacramento has a world-class Cosmetology program to give you the skills you need to start your career. Over the next several months, you’ll learn the technical skills in hair styling, skin care, and nail care, and the knowledge you need to become a certified cosmetologist. Paul Mitchell the School at Campus Sacramento has day and night class schedules to accommodate your busy schedule. For more information on start dates, financial aid, or anything else, contact our Admissions team or call 888-675-2460.