If you’ve ever looked at hair care products and seen the word "humectants" on the container, you might have wondered what those are and what they do. Humectants are a category of substances that help attract moisture and they are used extensively in hair care product formulas. These ingredients are used regularly in hair products for curly or coily hair, because these hair types often need more moisture to prevent hair from being dry or frizzy. Because the curlier your hair is, the less sebum travels from the scalp to the rest of the hair strand, and extra moisturizing is needed.
Let’s look closer at the ways humectants help moisturize and nourish your hair.
What Are Humectants?
Humectants are ingredients that draw moisture from the environment and add that moisture to your hair. The water molecules attracted from the air are then diffused and bonded to gaps in your hair follicles which natural sebum cannot reach. The result is softer hair that is more elastic, bouncy, and voluminous due to better moisturization. Hair that absorbs moisture is less dry and suffers less breakage from detangling and brushing. Think of humectants as magnets for water molecules in the air that help hydrate dry or damaged hair.
Humectants are organized into two categories: synthetic humectants and natural humectants. Synthetic humectants are developed as a product or by-product of processes in a lab. Natural humectants are made from natural organic sources like plants. Most beauticians consider natural humectants to be preferable as ingredients for hair hydration products.
Why Does Some Types of Hair Need Humectants?
At the base of all hair follicles, in the scalp are small glands that secrete a natural oil called sebum. The sebum is a natural protectant which travels down the hair strand, protecting it from environmental damage and keeping the cuticle from drying out and losing moisture. For straight and wavy hair, the sebum travels down the hair strand more easily. For curly hair, and especially coily hair, the sebum has a more difficult time finding its way down the hair strand to coat and protect it. As a result, the hair cuticles open up more often, causing moisture loss, and frizziness during humid weather.
Humectants and other moisturizing ingredients help hydrate the hair and protect it from damage from being dry and brittle. Hair care products often contain humectants to help replenish the hair with moisture, making the hair healthier.
How Do Humectants Work?
Humectants use adsorption and hydrogen bonding to attract, diffuse and bind water molecules to the hair strands. Adsorption is a process where atoms and molecules are attracted to adhere to the surface of the attracting component.
Water molecules are formed from two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Even when the overall charge of the molecule is neutral, the atoms can have differences in the electronegativity, meaning one part of the molecule is more positive, another part more negative – essentially a type of polarity, like two ends of a magnet. Oxygen atoms tend to have more electronegativity, which is part of what creates bonds in the water molecules.
Humectant molecules tend to have polar hydroxyl groups, which also are conducive to hydrogen bonding. The electronegative water molecules are drawn towards the humectants in the hair, resulting in the water molecules diffusing into the hair strand.
Natural Humectants
These are organic based substances that are also humectants.
- Honey
- Panthenol
- Flaxseed
- Sorbitol
- Glycerin
- Glycogen
- Hydrolyzed Proteins
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Collagen
- Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
- Keratin
- Sodium PCA
- Inositol
- Sugars & Modified Sugars
- Glucose
- Frutcose
- Polyethylene Glycol
- Aloe Vera
Benefits of Humectants for Hair
These are all the ways humectants help make your hair healthier.
1. Extra Hair Hydration
Humectants provide deep hydration to your hair by attracting moisture in the atmosphere to your hair.
2. Improved Hair Elasticity
By making your hair more hydrated, your hair is bouncier, more voluminous, and more elastic.
3. Less Frizz
Dry and brittle hair tends to be frizzy, when the cuticles are not laying flat, moisture flows in and out of the hair strand which causes frizz. Humectants help your hair retain moisture and hydration.
4. Environmental Protection
Protect hair from dry weather and wind, by using hair products with humectants.
5. Softer Hair, Easier Styling
Make your hair feel softer by using hydrating hair products containing humectants. Your hair will be more elastic and easier to style.
6. Reduces Hair Breakage
Hair that is more hydrated is less brittle, and less prone to damage by everyday routines like detangling or brushing.
Are There Any Downsides to Humectants?
There are a few things to keep in mind when using hair products that contain humectants.
1. Hair Can be Overhydrated During Humid Weather
Humectants can overhydrate hair when the air is humid, leaving it frizzy.
2. Product Build Up
Use a clarifying shampoo periodically to clean the scalp.
Concerns with Humidity
When the air is highly humid, and the air temperature is warm to hot, humectants can attract an excessive amount of moisture, causing porous hair to become frizzy. In these conditions, you should use hair products that contain anti-humectants and emollients.
Emollients are substances that help coat the hair strand and seal the hair cuticles, locking moisture inside the hair strand and not allowing excessive moisture to be diffused into the hair strand. It’s better to avoid silicones in hair products, because these are not healthy for curly or coily hair. There are natural emollients that will keep your hair healthy, including:
- Coconut oil
- Castor oil
- Grapeseed oil
- Argan oil
- Jojoba oil
- Shea butter
- Sunflower oil
- Mango butter
- Avocado oil
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