When you think of perms, you may think of retro styles from past decades, but the truth is, perm techniques have come a long way since then. There are lots of options for perms that didn’t exist decades ago. Let’s clarify what a perm is, and talk about how they work.
What is a Perm?
Perms, short for “permanent wave”, is a process which adds curls to straight or wavy hair. This is done through a chemical process which alters the protein bonds in the hair strands that determine the natural hair shape. The process reshapes the hair into curls. Some variations of the perm use heat along with chemical processing.
The first perm process was created around 1906 by Karl Nessler, who patented the first permanent wave machine in 1909. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt developed the first “cold perm” which did not require the use of heat to set curls.
New techniques are constantly being developed to create new versions of the perm, giving hairdressers more flexibility for defining the shape and tightness of the curls.
How Does a Perm Work?
The specific steps for setting a permanent wave will vary depending on the type of perm, but the basic process is the same for all perms. The hair is wrapped around curling rods and a specially formulated solution is applied to the hair. This chemical solution alters the protein bonds in the hair to change the natural texture of the hair to make it more curly. After a period of time, a neutralizing solution is applied to the hair to stop the chemical process and set the hair in its new curly state.
The larger the curling rods, the looser the curls - the smaller the curling rods, the tighter the curls. The texture of the curls also depends on whether the hairdresser is using a hot or cold perm method, and the chemical treatment being used to set the curls.
Hot vs Cold Perms
Before discussing different types of perms, it’s important to understand the differences between cold perms and hot perms.
Cold Perms
Cold perms aka traditional perms are where dry hair is wrapped around rollers to make it curl. Then, an alkaline solution is added to the hair to react with the keratin in the hair strands to create waves and curls. After the setting period, about 20 minutes or longer, a neutralizing solution is added to the hair to stop the chemical reaction. Cold perms work better on coarse hair as the alkaline penetrates the hair shaft deeper.
Hot Perms
Hot perms aka digital perms are used for thinner, finer hair - creating looser, silky waves that hold for several months. A hot perm uses an acidic solution and heated rollers or rods to set the curls. The process for setting a hot perm is about two hours long.
Explained concisely, cold perms produce tight, defined curls and hot perms create softer, looser curls.
How Long Does a Perm Last?
Most perms will last between 3 and 6 months, depending on the type of perm, your hair type, and your hair health. Hair which has not been chemically processed will hold the waves of the perm longer than hair that is dried out from chemical treatments.
Traditional perms with a normal curl pattern and spiral perms last about 3 to 6 months. Hot perms can last between 4 to 6 months.
How Long Does the Perm Process Take in the Salon?
Depending on the type of perm you have an appointment for, the process can take from less than an hour to more than two hours.
Interesting Notes About Perms
Perms work best with hair that hasn’t been bleached, colored, or chemically treated. The permanent wave process affects the keratin bonds in the hair, so healthy hair holds a perm the easiest.
Most often, people with straight hair get perms, but sometimes people with curly or wavy hair also get perms to add more volume, body, and bounce to the curls.
Longer hair works best for perms, because the hair must be wrapped around rollers or perming rods. Your hair should be about shoulder length or longer to get the most out of a perm.
How to Care for Perms
- You should wait at least 48 hours to wash your hair or condition your hair after getting a perm, to allow the curl patterns to set properly. After the initial setting period, you’ll still want to avoid washing your hair every single day. Washing your hair has affect the longevity of your perm.
- Wash your hair with moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Permed hair is prone to extra frizz and dryness, so be sure to hydrate your hair and keep your curls voluminous and bouncy.
- Avoid heat styling tools because they can dry out your hair faster than normal. If you do use a blow dryer, use a heat diffuser. If you use heat styling, use a heat protectant with your hair.
- Use a wide tooth comb to detangle instead of brushing. Your hair will be more susceptible to breakage after perming, so comb with a wide comb and avoid brushing it aggressively.
- Avoid brushing your hair while wet. This also can lead to excessive breakage.
- Dry your hair with a microfiber towel and pat it dry. Never rub your hair with a towel, this can cause damage. Make sure your hair is completely dry before going to bed.
- Use a silk scrunchie if you tie your hair back. Rubber bands and ponytail holders are rough on your fragile hair.
- Sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase to prevent friction damage to your hair. Cotton pillowcases cause damage to your hair as you shift in your sleep. Silk and satin are gentle on fragile hair.
- Wash your hair with shampoos containing emollients, these will help nourish and protect your hair.
Types of Perms
There are many different types of perms, these are just a few.
Spiral Perm
Usually done on hair that is shoulder length and longer, the hair is rolled vertically to create tight, twisted, bouncy spiral curls. Spiral perms typically last about 6 months.
Body Wave Perm
A body wave perm is usually good for people with very straight hair that normally doesn’t curl. The hairstylist uses large rollers to create looser, larger waves with natural volume. This type of perm lasts about 3 to 5 months.
Beach Wave Perm
This perm uses spongy rollers instead of perm curling rods to create a casual, touseled, wavy look that resembles what your hair looks like after visiting the beach. A beach wave perm lasts about 4 months.
Pigtail Perms
A pigtail perm is created by braiding sections of your hair before the perm solution is applied. This creates voluminous, wavy curls that resemble crimping. A pigtail perm will last about 4 months.
Pin Curl Perm
Pin curl perms create tight, bouncy curls that work well with shorter hair lengths. The hairdresser uses both pins and curlers to create tight curls of various sizes. A pin curl perm lasts between 3 and 6 months.
Partial Perms
Partial perms aka spot perms target a specific area instead of the entire head of hair. This can help you add volume in specific areas while blending into the remainder of your natural hair.
Root Perms
A root perm is a specific type of partial perm done near the roots, within a few inches of the scalp. These help add volume to the hair, but they typically only last about 1 month. These might be done if you’ve already permed the hair and it’s grown out.
Stack Perms
A stack perm is a type of partial perm that focuses on the middle and lower parts of the hair to create a layered look. The cosmetologist uses different sized curling rods in the mid and lower sections of the hair to seamlessly blend the hair, making it look voluminous and natural. A stack perm typically lasts 4 to 5 months.
Multi-Texture Perms
With a multi-textured perm, the hairstylist used different sized curling rods and rollers to create a more natural looking curl pattern. The end result is a layered mixture of tight and loose curls that add natural volume and dimension. Multi-textured perms last about 3 to 4 months.
FAQs
Do Perms Damage Your Hair?
Cold perms are a bit more strenuous on your hair than hot perms, due to the chemical processing solution. You should not be getting a perm more than once or twice a year. Ideally, you should wait between 8 to 10 months between each perm to give your hair time to heal and recover. If you already have dry or brittle hair, a perm can cause damage to your hair. Getting a perm too often can be hard on your hair, but if you space perms out, it shouldn’t affect your hair too much.
Does it Matter How Long Your Hair Is?
Your hair has to be at least shoulder length, so there is enough to wrap around the curling rods, but if it’s very long, it can be more difficult and more time-consuming to get all your hair permed. Shoulder length to medium length hair is the most practical length of hair to work with when you get a perm.
What Types of Activities Shorten the Lifespan of Your Perm?
Swimming, staying out in rainy weather, and over-frequent shampooing can reduce the longevity of your perm. The wetness of your hair opens the hair cuticle, allowing the perming chemicals to escape from your hair strand.
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